BIG MONEY IN PLASTICS
Look around you. Almost everything you see is made of
plastic. Now with these 16 formulas found in the book,
Big Money in Plastics, you can make your own items, such
as lamps, plaques, vases, toys, desk sets, novelty items
and more. It's an endless list. The only requirement
needed is a small space to work in, a heater or stove.
You need a kettle or pan to heat the mixture in and a
table or bench to work on. Your dining table can be used.
Here's what you get...
1. The book containing 16 formulas for making almost any type of
plastic.
2. Instructions for making molds, mixing, heating, pouring, etc.
3. Names and addresses of companies that furnish supplies.
You also get full reprint rights to reprint and sell the
formulas. You get a camera-ready copy of the circular to
sell the booklet.
You can make plastic products to sell, and sell the
formulas just as I do. YOU MAKE MONEY BOTH WAYS! Order
your copy of Big Money in Plastics today. It's only
$5.00. If for any reason you are not satisfied with this
business plan, simply return it within ten days for a full
refund.
Send me Big Money in Plastics, and include the reprint
rights. Enclosed is my check or money order for $5.00 and
2 first class stamps.
NAME________________________________________________
ADDRESS____________________________________________
CITY/STATE/ZIP________________________________________
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SULPHO-PLASTICS
This plastic is particularly adaptable for making molds
and light castings requiring low tensile strength but very
clear outline. It may also be used for making novelties
and ornaments. However, as this is inflammable, do not
use for ashtrays.
The name would convey the thought of plastic sulphur which
is an unstable allotropic for of sulphur, this is not the
case. The sulphur acts as a bond to hold the filler
together and form a stable material.
Marble effects may be obtained by varying the filler used,
and by substituting a small quantity of chalk to replace
some of the graphite. A very pleasing glazed marble
effect is formed.
As long as graphite is retained as a filler, this plastic
may be electroplated and forms a very economical base for
such work.
FORMULA: Mix thoroughly and smooth together 25 parts
graphite and 75 parts sulphur and place over low heat. As
soon as the mass has melted and runs like water, remove
from heat. In any case, a temperature of 235 degrees F.
should not be exceeded. It heated about 250 degrees F.
the plastic will form a rubbery mass and will have to be
cooled and reheated. In this liquid state the plastic is
ready for casting, and may be poured into smooth surfaced
molds.
N.B. to heat this mixture properly, a good even heat is
necessary. Should the heating be done by flame, the
container should be placed in a sand bath to insure an
even heat. The cast iron top of a stove or heater is
excellent.
EQUIPMENT: The only equipment for the above that is
required, is space enough to work. a heater or stove, a
kettle or pan to heat the mixture in, and a table or
bench.
PROCEDURE: Before making in castings you will need a
pattern. After choosing a design that fits your need,
your next step is to make a mold. Then you start into
production. If your product requires any holes, threads
or machining, this may be done in the same manner as in
working with a metal casting.
Always think of your castings as metal, for they have
metallic properties, i.e., conduct heat, electricity and
can be electroplated. In fact, the most valuable quality
of Sulpho-Plastic is the fact that it can be used as a
metal substitute. This permits you to make products that
look and are as good and even better, in some cases, than
a true metal. For instance, to make a chrome plated metal
lamp base, other metal casting would require foundry
equipment and machine shop work. A process miles out of
reach of the small manufacturer. However, with your
plastic lamp base, similar in all respects, may be made
for a fraction of the other cost.
ELECTROPLATING: While this can be done at home with very
little equipment, it is advisable to have it done by a
commercial form. They do it very cheaply and much more
efficiently. Electroplating is only used on expensive
replicas and is not advisable for a start.
DESIGN: The number and variety of articles that can be
made from Sulpho-Plastic is practically unlimited and to
make a complete list would be impossible. Though any
article of reasonable size and simplicity of design such
as lams, vases, plaques, brooches, desk-sets, toys, paper
weights, etc., may be cast by using an original article
for a pattern or model. Or an original design may be
patterned in clay and used to make a mold. It is
advisable for the beginner to choose a simple article to
start with, preferably solid, such as book-ends or paper
weights.
MOLDS: Molds may be made of metal or plaster of paris.
Metal models require a great deal of skill and equipment
to produce. therefore for the beginner, it is advisable
to use plaster of paris.
To make a plaster of paris mold. First obtain a box, wood
or cardboard, about an inch larger than the article to be
cast. Coat the inside of the box very thoroughly, yet
thinly with stearine or sweet oil. Use this also on the
article to be cast. This acts as a lubricant and the
plaster of paris will not cement itself to either the box
or the article, if the oil is evenly distributed. Next
make a thick, creamy mixture of plaster of paris by
sifting the plaster gradually into the water, stirring
constantly to prevent lumping. Let this stand for a few
minutes to allow the air bubbles to escape. Pour mixture
slowly over pattern in the box to about double the
thickness of the pattern. Allow several hours to dry,
then remove. when the mold is thoroughly dry, give it a
thin coat of shellac and repeat in 12 hours. Now the mold
is ready to use.
MOLDING: First always make sure that you have lubricated
your mold with stearine or beeswax. Place molds on a
reasonably level surface and pour the Sulpho-Plastic into
the mold, quickly and smoothly. Do not pour from a height
as this will break the lubricant and leave blemishes on
the castings. Plastic must be poured quickly to prevent
cooling in folds and thus making a poor casting. One of
the big assets of Sulpho-Plastic is the fact that is dries
and hardens almost immediately. There is no long wait for
the casting to dry.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Graphite and Sulphur can be obtained
from most any hardware or paint store. Also plaster of
paris. Stearine, beeswax, sweet oil can be purchased from
most drug or grocery stores.
FORMULA:
Foam density lbs./cu.ft.
11/2 8 24 48
Polylite 8601
50. 50. 50. 50.
Catalyst RI
1.3 0.65 0.65 0.65
Water
3.7 0.4 0.1 0.0
Polylite 8621
100. 50. 48.5 47
(polylite 8601 is a polyseter) (polylite 8621 is a polyiscyanate)
PROCEDURE: In order to prepare a foam of give density,
thoroughly mix Polylite 8601 with the necessary amount of
catalyst RI and water. This mixture is stable when foam
is required. Add the necessary amount of Polylite 8621.
Mix thoroughly for 25 to 30 seconds and then pour. Do
this right after mixing foams per instructions above. The
foam will fully expand within 3 to 5 minutes and set
within 5 to 7 minutes into a rigid unicullar structure.
Available mixing time can be extended by moderately
chilling the catalyzed resin and the Polysicyanate. It
will attain nearly maximum physical properties upon
standing a few hours at room temperature and ultimate
strength in about one week. Surface brittleness may be
evident with some formulations after initial set. This
brittleness disappears upon further curing, leaving a
tough non-friable foam. curing can be accelerated with
moderate heat up to 100 degrees F. after the foam has set
if desired.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Polylite 8601, Polylite 8621 and
Catalyst RI can all be obtained from: Reichold Chemicals
Inc. 525 N. Broadway, White Plains, NY 10602
CRAFT PLAX CLEAR FLEXIBLE PLASTIC
Vinyl Chloride Type Suitable for molding in a letter press
FORMULA:
Pliovic AO.......25 ounces
Dioctyl Phthalate.......12 ounces
Panaflex BN 2.....4 ounces
Aluminum Stearate....1 ounce
PROCEDURE: The aluminum stearate is mixed with hot
Dioctyl Phthalate. After cooling to room temperature, add
the panaflex BN 2, and finally, the Pliovic AO. Small
scale mixing can be done with a paddle, but commercial
size batches will require the use of a planetary dough
type mixer such as used by bakers.
PACKING: One pint paint cans and a paper label.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Mold with your hands or press into
molds with a letter press. Heat to 350 degrees F. and
hold this temperature until the plastic has cured. This
will require from a few minutes to an hour or more,
depending on the thickness of the object. Curing time can
be determined by trial. Molds can be made of 50-50
solder.
COMMENT: Plastic of this kind is known as plastigel,
since it is in the form of easily manipulated, putty-like
gel in its uncured state. No other form of plastic is
better suited to the operation of the homeworker because
no expensive dyes or high pressure pressing equipment is
needed to produce first class flexible objects.
SOURCE OF SUPPLIERS:
Pliovic AO..Goodyear Tire and Rubber Co. Akron, OH.
Dioctyl Phthalate.. Monsanto Chemical Corp...1700 S. 2nd
St., St. Louis MO.
Panaflex BN-2..Amoco Chemical Corp..555 Fifty Ave., New
York, NY.
Aluminum Stearate..Witco Chemical Co., 277 Park Ave., New
York, NY.
Paint Cans..Fruend Can Co., 4439 S. Cottage Grove Ave.,
Chicago, IL.
Labels..Frazer Label Co., 734 S. Federal St., Chicago, IL.
Mixers.. A. Daigger & Co., 189 W. Kinzie St., Chicago, IL.
IMITATION PAPER MACHE
FORMULA 1:
Wet paper pulp.....10 ounces
Casein.....5 ounces
Lime.....2 ounces
Whitting.....20 ounces
Use as little water as possible in mixing this formula.
Make up small batches until you see if the composition is
exactly what you desire. Hot compositions, of course
cannot be used in glue molds.
FORMULA 2:
Paper pulp.....10 ounces
Whitting.....8 ounces
Rice flour.....5 ounces
Cook to a heavy paste, or 5 ounces of rice may be cooked
to a past and mixed with the dry materials. A hard paper
mache.
FORMULA 3:
Use paper pulp or whitting...5 pounds
Liquid Glue.....1 pound
Clear Varnish.....4 ounces
Linseed Oil.....4 ounces
MIXING: Pour the glue into a tin or pail with a tight
fitting lid so that it can be kept tightly closed when not
in use. Then add the whitting or paper
pulp, stirring in a little at a time to a smooth paste.
Then add the varnish and linseed oil, mixed well. Keep
the mixture covered well when not in use as it dries
rapidly. This mixture will adhere firmly to wood, glass,
tin, chinaware, etc. paper mache surfaces are greatly
improved after drying if they are coated with shellac, 2
coats.
SYNTHETIC RESIN PLASTIC
FORMULA: Phenol and a solution of Formaldehyde, in equal
portions are put in a steam jacketed kettle and heat is
gradually applied. Soon the materials will begin to
react, and in doing so - liberate heat so intense the
reaction may become that the steam must, at times be shut
off and cold water circulated in the jacket to keep the
process from going too far, or the materials from boiling
out of the kettle. After a few hours of heating the
contents of the kettle will be found to have separated
into layers. The heavy melted resin n the bottom and the
water on top. When the water is removed, the melted resin
is allowed to run from the kettle into small pans to cool.
This is a process that requires some experimenting with to
get just right. But it is an interesting experience, and
lays the foundation for later work on a commercial basis.
Different treatment will produce many different qualities
of the product. So it is good to keep a record of every
operation. Put them all down in a record book, when a
satisfactory product is obtained, it can later be
duplicated.
SOURCE OF SUPPLIES:
Phenol and Formaldehyde can be purchased from most any
wholesale drug supply Co.
FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTIC
FORMULA:
Laminac 4134........24.45%
Laminac 4110........75.00%
Cobalt Nepthenate (Liquid)...0.24%
Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide...0.3%
ALSO NEEDED:
Talc
Fiberglass mat
Color paste for Laminac resin
Cellophane
No. 1894 EX-L-WAX
Woven Fiberglass cloth
PROCESS:
This method of forming reinforced plastic objects is known
as "open mold fabrication." It is best suited to the home
craftsman because it is the simplest method available and
requires the lowest investment. Extreme wide variation in
the techniques are possible and they type os structures
that can be made are almost limitless. For molding a boat
hull, a female mold is used. This mold is made to conform
exactly to the exterior dimensions and finish desired in
the completed molded boat hull. The mold may be made of
wood, plaster, metal, or plastic. The best practical and
inexpensive molds are made of the same plastic from which
the boat itself will be made. The interior of the mold is
first coated with the parting agent - No. 1894 EX-L-WAX.
Apply the least amount that will provide easy removal of
the hull from the mold. Mix the laminac 4134 and 4110 in
the proportions stated in the above formula. Add the
cobalt naphthenate accelerator and mix thoroughly before
adding the methyl ethyl ketone peroxide catalyst. The
catalyst will react violently with the pure accelerator so
make certain these materials are mixed separately. Add
talc to the mixture to thicken it so that application to a
vertical surface will not produce sags... Apply a coat of
the thickened resin to the inside surface of the mold.
This is to insure a smooth and durable surface. Lay up a
single layer of fiberglass mat over the entire surface of
the mold. Using a paint roller or brush impregnate the
layer of fiberglass with resin. Regardless of how the
resin is applied, the paint roller must also be used to
assure against entrapped air bubbles.
Lay up another layer of mat and impregnate with resin same
as the first. Repeat this process until desired thickness
is attained. Finish with a layer of fiberglass cloth and
work vigorously with the roller to remove excess resin.
Finally apply cellophane over the entire surface to
produce a smooth finish. Allow to harden at room
temperature. Remove from the mold and place in an even
heated oven to 170 degrees F. and not over 200 degrees F.
Bake until full hardness is achieved.
Any other structure, large or small is molded in the same
way. Whether you use a male or female mold depends on
which surface of the finished piece should have the
finished side. The surface in contact with the mold is
always the most highly finished.
Colors may be added to suit by using color paste made for
the purpose. These are incorporated into the resin at the
time the talc is added.
More complete instructions on this process may be found in
"Fabrication with Laminac Resins. Write to: American
Cyanamid Co., 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:
Laminac 4134 and Laminac 4110 from..American Cyanamid Co.
Plastics Div., 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020
Cobalt Nepthenate (liquid) from..Carlisle Chemical Works,
Inc. Reading, OH.
Methyl Ethyl Ketone from..Enjay Co., 15 W. 51st, New York,
NY 10020
Talc from... Johns-Manville Co., Celite Div., 22 E. 40th
St., New York, NY 10016
No. 1894 EX-L-WAX from...Mitchell Rand Mfg. Co. 51 Murray
St., New York, NY 10007
Fiberglass Mat from....Bigelow Fiberglass Products, 140
Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016
Woven Fiberglass Cloth from....Hess Goldsmith & Co., 1450
Broadway, New York, NY
Color Pastes from...Plastic Molders Supply Co., 74 South
Ave., Fanwood, NJ
Cellophane from...Olin Products Co., 270 Park Ave., New
York, NY
FISHING LURES, FROGS & WORMS
FORMULA:
Geen 121..........30 ounces
Geen 202..........20 ounces
Good-Rite GP-261...25 ounces
Tin Stabilizer....1 ounce
Hydrogenated Terphenyl...25 ounces
PROCEDURE:
A small quantity like this may be mixed with an electric
hand mixer, or by hand. This mixture is fluid and may be
poured into suitable molds. Heating the molds to 350
degrees F. in an oven. It will fuse and harden the
plastic. There will be little shrinkage and the cast
objects have a life-like feeling. Molds may be made of
any material that will stand the curing temperature.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:
Geen 121 & 202 from..B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co., 3135
Euclid Ave., Cleveland, OH
Good-Rite GP-261 from...B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co., 3135
Euclid Ave., Cleveland, OH
Hydrogenated Terphenyl from...Harshaw Chemical Co., 1945
E. 97th St., Cleveland, OH
Tin Stabilizer from...Metal Thermit Corp., Rahway, NJ
CELLO SPONGE RUBBER
FORMULA:
Geen 121..........100 ounces
Paraplex G-25........50 ounces
Paraplex G-50........50 ounces
Dythos (stabilizer)....3 ounces
BL-353 (blowing agent)..10 ounces
Sponge Density 7 lbs. per cu. ft. Expansion 1100%.
PROCEDURE:
Heat the pastisol in the mold or on the desired substrate
at 212 degrees F. until expansion is completed. When the
GL-353 is used. The pigmented plastisol will show a
yellow-green (the color of BL-353) to white when all the
blowing agent is decomposed.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:
Geen 121 from..B.F. Goodrich, 3135 Euclid Ave., Cleveland, HO
Paraplex G-25 & G-50 from...Relm & Haas Co., Washington
Square, Philadelphia, PA
Dythos from...National Lead Co., 111 Broadway, New York, NY
BL-353 from...E.I. Dupont Co., Wilmington, DE
SIMPLIFIED PLASTICS
The amount of ingredients used in these various formulas
is considered to be correct. But you may have to do some
experimenting on your own, to obtain the proper flow
properties.
FORMULA 1:
Wood Flour...5 parts
Sodium Silicate....15 parts
PROCEDURE:
Mix the wood flour and Sodium Silicate together. Add more
water if necessary until a dough like mixture is formed by
kneading with the hands. This material may be molded into
hard objects by pressure. Colors may be added while
kneading. Use aniline dyes or dry colors. This material
is suited for plaques, statues, book ends and etc.
FORMULA 2:
Dissolve 20 parts of flake glue in water n a double
boiler. Add the dissolved glue to 90 parts of gelatin.
Add 50 parts of wood flour and 300 parts of powdered
chalk. Mix A and B together to make a heavy batter. This
is done in enough warm water to loosen the material. Add
dry colors (can be obtained from any paint dealer) and
mold under pressure.
FORMULA 3:
Add 100 pars of Zinc Oxide to 4 parts of Silicic Acid.
Add 2 parts of Powdered Borax to 2 1/2 parts of Powdered
Glass. Then mix both together well. Grind until fine,
then bring it into a solution by adding a concentrated
Zinc Oxide solution. This material is ideal for small
objects, but most be worked fast because of its rapid
drying. Color if desired in the usual manner. It may be
pressed with a hand press or in a drill press.
FORMULA 4:
Dissolve 1 pound of flaked glue in water by boiling.
Shred enough tissue paper into the solution to give body
and then stir until a thick batter results. Add 1 cup of
Linseed Oil into the solution and 1 cup of powdered chalk.
Stir well then remove from the double boiler, when cool
enough to knead with hands. Press into molds. A pair of
old gloves, slightly oiled with pure oil should be used to
protect the hands while kneading these materials. It
takes a few days for this material to dry. But at the end
of the drying time it should be as hard as stone. And it
resembles carved wood.
FORMULA 5:
Add 11 parts of Epsom Salts to 36 parts of freshly
Calcined Magnesite and 2 1/1 parts of Lead Acetate. Mix
thoroughly. Then add enough water to hold the material
together. Mold under pressure. This formula is good for
outdoor decorations. Such as ducks, birds, etc. They may
be painted after they have dried.
FORMULA 6:
Add 12 parts Pitch to 6 parts Rosin, mix together then add
1/2 part Caster Oil and 1/4 part melted wax. Blend this
mixture together at a temperature of 250 to 260 degrees F.
Press while hot into a cold die. Many articles may be
made from this material.
WOOD PLASTIC
Easy to make. Take any desired amount of wood flour or
finely sifted sawdust. Add enough ordinary clear lacquer
to make a thick putty like mass. This will keep for a
long time if kept in a tightly closed container. It makes
a fine durable material for mending and patching wood.
Purchase a can of plastic wood from your local hardware
store. You can see how it is packaged. Note: "Plastic
Wood" is a registered name. If you wish to package and
sell this product, you cannot use that name legally. You
can make up a name of your own.
Wood Flour may be purchased from....Wood Flour Inc.,
Howard Street, Winchester, NH or Composition Materials
Co., Ridgeway Cir, Summer St., Stanford, CT 06905.
You may obtain it from local woodworking plants.
SOURCE OF SUPPLIES:
Metal can may be purchased from...Fruend Can Co., 4439 S.
Cottage Grove Ave., Chicago, IL
Paper labels from...Fraser Label Co., 734 S. Federal St.,
Chicago, IL
RESIN CASTING PLASTIC
This is called Phenolic-Formaldehyde-Resin: All the
materials for this formula can be purchased from any
wholesale drug house.
EXTREME CAUTION: should be taken when mixing this
formula. You should only use a glass or stainless steel
vessel, and perform the operation in a place where the
fumes will dissipate. Either in open air or into a
chimney. These products should never come into contact
with the skin. They are highly irritating and corrosive.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Pure Phenol (carbolic acid) crystals, Formalin (30%
Formaldehyde), Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) or lye,
Lactic Acid, Clycerine, and Hydrochloric Acid.
Quantities are given by weight, so that you may make any
desired amount of resin.
FORMULA:
In a vessel mix 1 part phenol with 2 1/2 parts of
formalin. Add caustic soda a 20% solution in water, in
the amount of three parts to 100 parts of the phenol and
formaldehyde solution. This mixture is then heated for
about 6 hours at 150 to 160 degrees F. Remove the water
formed by the reaction. When the resin has become a thick
syrup, add 6 parts of lactic acid and 15 parts of
glycerine. Continue to heat until a small sample congeals
on cooling. Add Hydrochloric Acid, 1 part to 100 parts of
the mixture by weight, and when sufficiently cool, pour
into dies of lead or plaster.
Hardening tie depends on so many factors it is hard to
predict. It will dry quicker if heated in an oven at 120
to 140 degrees F. The product will be water-white, and
may be colored with dyes or pigments if desired.
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