TWEAKING EVERY LAST PENNY OUT OF YOUR

TWEAKING EVERY LAST PENNY OUT OF YOUR

GARAGE SALE

Garage sales are like any other form of business. To get the

most money out of your garage sale, you have to know what you

are doing. You have to be acquainted with the market, advertise

for business, offer competitive prices and quality merchandise.

The first thing to do in most cases, is visit or check with your

local municipal government about the laws surrounding garage

sales. You may be required to purchase a license to legally hold

your sale. You may have to hold your sale on certain days, or on

a certain part of your property, perhaps the backyard instead of

the front yard or driveway where safety problems and other

nuisances to your neighbors can occur. You may have to follow

certain advertising guidelines. In any case, it's better to know

beforehand than have an inspector slap you with a $500 fine for

some innocent-looking infraction of local bylaws.

With legalities out of the way, take the previous Saturday and

attend some garage sales in your neighborhood if you haven't

already, to see what sort of prices are asked for which items.

Try to go to there early in the morning and also later in the

day to find out what's gone and what's not selling. What went

first was probably underpriced and what's left is either

overpriced or not worth anything to most people.

Once you have a general idea of what kinds of prices you can

charge, figure out what you want to sell. Remember that if you

have any doubts about whether or not you'll want to keep the

item, don't sell it. You'll regret it later more often than not.

If you really need the money, keep the price reasonable. Don't

make people pay extra for the emotional loss you'll be suffering

or you just won't sell it.

The Sunday before the sale is the best time to get most of your

garage sale items in order. Pack them in boxes or keep them in a

special corner. If you start on Sunday, you'll have six days to

stumble upon items you'll want to sell that you hadn't thought

of and wouldn't have thought of if you had waited until the last

minute. It shouldn't take more than half an hour to get

everything that comes quickly in mind in place for your sale,

and it wouldn't seem like any time at all to get the items you

find during the week since you'll put them away as a matter of

course during the week.

Advertise on a Friday and Saturday only. You won't get more

customers by advertising through the week, and you'll probably

be urged to spend that extra money. Don't. You're in this to

make money, not spend it.

On Friday, your heavy work begins. The first thing to do is make

up signs. Write them like your newspaper ad, including date,

starting and finishing time, whether you'll be holding it on

Sunday too, a few of the more interesting items, and your

address. With your ad, never start the ad with "Garage Sale." If

it's going to be under the Garage Sale heading, people know it's

already a garage sale.

When you make your signs, you should put GARAGE SALE on it in

big letters, at least three inches high and in the heaviest felt

pen you can find. Write them on white paper or cardboard,

preferably 8-1/2"x14" and leave a couple of inches blank at the

bottom. Have the address in letters thick enough to be easily

read by a passing car.

Place these signs on lampposts on nearby corners, at laundromat

bulletin boards, and at every corner where someone might turn to

get to your home. When you put the sign up, use the felt marker

to mark a huge arrow indicating the direction of your home. Many

garage sale enthusiasts will give up if they can't find your

home on the first try. Be sure to take the signs down as soon as

the sale is over, as police have discovered they make

interesting suggestions for burglars.

Once the signs are out, set to pricing all your goods. It will

be a lot easier to do half or more for your pricing on Friday

night. Masking tape is about the best for this since it sticks

to anything and comes off easily and takes felt pen ink quite

well. Round off your prices to 5 cent intervals up to a quarter,

to 25 up to $2 and 50 up to five dollars. Don't use prices like

$3.95. They are effective strategies for retailers, but they'll

make you look like too much of a pro and make people think you

don't have any real bargains. When in doubt, set the price low.

Remember: YOUR GOAL IS TO GET RID OF THE UNWANTED, not

to make a profit! The better your prices, the more you'll sell.

One quick note: In most cases, it is illegal to resell

underwear or bathing suits or any clothing worn directly against

the skin on the lower body. It is not wise to sell any baked

goods, sandwiches or even coffee and soft drinks unless they

come sealed. You will leave yourself wide open for a lawsuit if

someone gets sick even if it's not your fault, and in many cases

it's usually against health codes to do anything but give

refreshments away on your property.

Finally, make one big sign, at least an hour and a half before

the scheduled start of the sale. If you don't, you'll leave

yourself little time to wake up and set your merchandise before

customers arrive, and expect a steady flow starting half an hour

or so before the scheduled start.

Don't worry if you're still loading stuff onto your yard or

driveway as people arrive. That's good for business, because the

serious people will wait until every item is on display, giving

them a lot more time to find things they would otherwise have

overlooked. If you've got neighbors adding their goods to your

sale, have them make a complete list of items and prices marked

on them rather than having them listed as they sell.

That means any losses will be their responsibility, not yours,

and chances are good a few items could be shoplifted. Keep the

list near your change box, which should have a roll each of

quarters, dimes and nickels, twenty one dollar bills and a few

fives and tens. If you get stuck without change, you'll wind up

giving the customer an unnecessary discount and that costs you

money.

Try to have an extra pair of hands around until noon, when

traffic will slow considerably for the rest of the day. Have

your children keep their eyes open for shoplifters, and unless

the item stolen is a valuable one, it may not be worth your

while to stop the thief or press charges.

Have a good selection of electrical outlets, make sure they're

grounded, for testing appliances and any other electrically

powered items. Heavy duty extensions for lawnmowers or block

heaters should be sufficient.

If by noon things have not gone as well as you've hoped, think

seriously about dropping your prices. Mark everything unsold

down by 25% and if that doesn't help, reduce the price to half

your original asking price by 3:00. If you're not prepared to do

this, you're having your garage sale for the wrong reason. The

object is to convert junk to cash, and if you're reluctant to

price things competitively, it's not junk and will not sell.

You will be asked to drop your price almost on every item. A

good rule of thumb is not to split the difference, but to keep

in mind what the person asked and hold firm for at least the

first couple of hours. If a $50 piece of furniture is fetching

several offers of $20, you should probably be asking $30 for it.

You'll get a feel for these things as the day progresses, but

don't bring your prices down too soon. It's easy to get the

feeling that the person you're talking to is the only one you'll

meet all day who is interested in the particular item, and it's

not usually true.

If you have furniture for sale, don't be afraid to let the buyer

leave the piece with you until later. You won't be going

anywhere, and as long as there's a SOLD sign on it, it does

nothing but add to the impression that you have a lot of goods.

Variety is a strong attraction, especially with neighbors who

just happen to be passing by.

Don't be too picky about keeping ledgers on everything you sell.

It will help to have a receipt book in case you get asked for a

written receipt, but you are selling at a loss on almost every

item compared to what you paid for it, and it won't count as

income at the end of the year so there's no sense cluttering

your files.

Once you decide to shut your sale down, and you may do it before

your advertised hour, if you're really running short of goods,

divide all remaining goods into three categories: goods to be

donated to charitable groups, goods to be resold at next year's

garage sale or a neighbor's garage sale later in the season, and

goods you should have sold in the first place. Keep the first

group in boxes by the front door so you'll remember what to do

with them and the second group in labelled cartons for easy

access. If you used masking tapes on these items, be sure to

remove it right away. The gum on this tape tends to stick much

harder than regular tape, and removing it 1ater might be a real

problem. It's good to remove price stickers of any kind in all

cases for that reason.

If you've been reselling items you bought cheap at other garage

sales and making a profit from them, you are technically

required to charge sales tax and pay income tax on profits. If

you hold garage sales on several consecutive weekends, chances

are good you'll receive a visit or letter from the tax people

asking about your activity.

Many couples hold weekly garage sales as a source of extra

income, though it usually does not pay off your effort since the

best items always goes first and you either have to keep buying

new items to sell or reducing prices regularly to move your

stock. As a general rule, you'll sell more of your less popular

items faster at a flea market where buyers expect slightly

higher prices.

HOW TO CASH IN WITH SIMPLE FORMULAS

HOW TO CASH IN WITH SIMPLE FORMULAS

(Mostly 1 & 2 Ingredients Available in Drugstores)

You can copy any of these Formulas and sell to other Agents, or

put them together in packages - under your own name - and sell

to Agents.

The specialty formulas presented within the pages of this report

were carefully selected for the explicit purpose of placing the

beginner with limited capital in a position to manufacture

quick-sell products. Every one of them represents a popular

product of wide appeal and genuine merit. No expensive

equipment is needed to prepare these products. In most cases,

you do the mixing, compounding and packaging from your kitchen

table. If directions are adhered to faithfully, results are

sure to be satisfactory.

Borated Talcum Powder - Gradually rub 1/2 part Perfume Oil into

5 parts Magnesium Carbonate. Add to this 90 parts Talc and 5

parts Boracic Acid. Mix thoroughly and sieve. Put up in

12-ounce shaker boxes and sell .

Solid Perfume - Melt together 33 parts Paraffin and 66 parts

White Petrolatum. Stir until cool, and then add 1 part Perfume

Oil. Allow to settle. Cut into 1-inch blocks, wrap in tin foil

and sell.

Suntan Oil - Mix together thoroughly 25 parts Olive Oil with

24-1/2 parts Peanut Oil refined. If desired, 1/2 part Perfume

Oil can be added for scent. Put up in 6-ounce bottles and sell.

Powder Fire Extinguisher - Mix together 5 parts Common Salt, 1/2

part Sulphate of Soda, 1/2 part Silicate of Soda, 1/4 part

Chloride of Calcium,. 2 parts Baking Soda and 6 parts Ground

Rice. Pack in one-pound long tin tubes with pull-off caps and

sell. To use simply scatter the powder on the blaze.

Bath or Dusting Powder - Rub 1/2 part Perfume Oil into 75 parts

Powdered Borax, then mix thoroughly with 25 parts Wheat or Corn

Starch. Put in 4-ounce shaker boxes and sell.

Antiseptic Ointment (Astringent) - For soothing relief from

bruises, cuts, bites, stings, etc. Dissolve 3.4 parts of

Plienol and 6.8 parts Salicylic Acid in 38 parts of Melted

Yellow Petrolatum. Let cool, then add 38 parts of Ilyrous

Lanolin with which 6.8 parts Sulphonnated Bitumen has been

thoroughly mixed. Put up in 3 ounce jars and sell.

Invisible Ink - Mix together 1 part Sulphuric Acid with 10 parts

Water. Put up in ounce bottles and sell. To use, write with

plain pen point. Writing can be read when paper is slightly

heated.

Imitation Vanilla Flavor - Dissolve 30 ounces of Vanillin into

150 fl. ounces of Alcohol, add 180 fl. ounces of Glycerine.

Then run in 40 fl. ounces of Caramel and 600 fl. ounces of

Distilled Water. Filter to clarify. Put up in 4-ounce bottles,

and sell.

Mothproofing Paper - Melt together 1 part Crude Haphthalene

(inflammable) and 2 parts of Paraffin Wax. With this mixture

paint unsized paper (ordinary brown wrapping paper will do

fine). Use a broad brush. To use, wrap clothing in this

treated paper before storing as a precaution against moths. Sell

per sheet.

Bronze, Gold or Silver Ink - Fine Bronze Powder, or Gold or

Silver Leaf is ground with a little Potash, and washed from the

salt and mixed with water and a sufficient quantity of Gum

Acacia. Put up in 1-ounce bottles and sell.

Auto Polish in Powder Form - Dissolve 2 ounces Paraffin Oil into

6 fl. ounces of Carbon Tetrachloride and mix with 16 ounces of

Infusorial Earth. Pack this product in 8-1/2 ounce airtight

cans and sell. To use, stir into 2 quarts of water.

Theatre Spray - Mix together 4 parts Water Soluble Perfume Oil

and 124 parts Water. Sell this to theatres in gallon jugs.

Blackhead Cream - Rub 1-1/4 ounces of Preciditated Sulphur with

1 fl. ounce of Glycerine and incorporate this with 7-1/2 ounces

of Ointment of Rose Water. Put up in 4-ounce jars and sell. To

be used at bed-time.

Silver Polish that Replates with Silver - Mix together 3 parts

Chloride of Silver, 2 parts Fine Whiting, 6 parts Cream of

Tartar and 3 parts Common Salt. Put up in 6-ounce cans or

bottles and sell.

Rubber Stamps - Set up the desired name and address in common

type, oil the type and then put a guard about 1/2-inch high

around the form. Next, pour in plaster of paris that has been

mixed to the proper consistency. Allow to set. Now get long

strips of vulcanized rubber about 3 inches wide and one-eighth

of an inch thick, cut off the size of the intended stamp, then

remove the plaster cast from the type, and place both the cast

and the rubber in a screw press. Now apply sufficient heat to

thoroughly soften the rubber, turn the screw hard and let it

remain until the rubber receives the exact impression of the

cast and becomes cold. Remove and trim neatly with a sharp

knife and cement to handle. Sell for so much for 3 lines of type

and so much for each additional line.

Window Defroster - This is a good seller to storekeepers who

want to keep winter frosts from hiding their window displays.

Dissolve 55 parts Glycerine into 1,000 parts 62% Alcohol. Add a

few drops of amber. Sell to stores in gallon jugs.

Oil Orange Flavor - Orange Oil, 6 ounces; Edible Corn Oil, 1

gallon. Put up in 4-ounce bottles and sell.

Oil Lemon Flavor - Oil of Lemon, 6 ounces; Edible Corn Oil, 1

gallon. Put up same as above.

Pineapple Oil Flavor - Pineapple Extract, 2 quarts; Edible Corn

Oil, 1 gallon. Put up same as above.

Polishing Cloth - Dissolve 5 ounces of Oxalic Acid in 5 gallons

of water, stir into this 5 pounds of Whiting. Soft pieces of

cloth, such as Canton Flannel, are saturated with this mixture,

gently squeezed out and allowed to dry. While treating cloth

with the preparation, the mixture should be kept well-stirred to

prevent the whiting from settling. Pack the treated cloths in

glassine envelopes and sell.

Deodorant Powder - 1-1/2 parts Bismuth Subnitrate, 1 part

Powdered Salicylic Acid, 1 part zinc Oliostearate. Grind all

together in a mortar. Put up in 3-ounce shaker boxes.

Permanent Ink (Cannot Be Erased; Will Not Fade) - Dissolve 10

fl. drams of Gum Copal into 10 fl. ounces of Oil of Lavender

with the aid of gentle heat. Thoroughly mix into this solution

100 grains of Lampblack and 20 grains of Indigo that has been

rubbed to an impalpable powder. Put up in 2-ounce bottles and

sell.

Soapless Oil Shampoo - Mix 100 parts sulfonated Castor Oil into

1 part Perfume Oil. If lower concentration is desired, add

water to suit. Put up in 8-ounce bottles and sell.

Foot Powder - Mix thoroughly together 10 parts Boric Acid with

0.7 parts Zinc Oxide and 2.7 parts Purified Talc. Put up in

5-ounce shaker boxes and sell.

Marble Cleaner (used extensively on tombstones) - To 1 part

Powdered Pumice, 2 parts Dried Carbonate of Soda and 1 part

Chalk add sufficient water to make a thick paste. Put up in

16-ounce cans and sell.

All Purpose Cleaner - Satisfactory for cleaning woodwork,

floors, dishes, painted surfaces, porcelain, linoleum, glass,

etc. This is simply Trisodium Phosphate. Put up in 1-ounce

bags with instructions to mix with 1 gallon of water and sell.

Shoe Saver - Simply melt together 2 parts Tallow with 1 part

Resin. To use, apply this mixture freely to the soles of shoes

with a table knife. Makes them wear much longer. Put up in

2-ounce, airtight cans, and sell.

Typewriter Ribbon Renewer - Dissolve 1 part Aniline Black with

15 parts of Pure Grain Alcohol and then add 15 parts of

Concentrated Glycerine. Put up in 1-ounce dropper bottles and

sell. To use, put one drop on each 1/2 inch of ribbon, rewind

and let set for 72 hours. Each bottle will re-ink from 30 to 40

ribbons.

Eczema Ointment - Mix together 31-1/2 ounces of Boric Acid

Ointment and 31-1/2 ounces of Ointment of Ammoniated Mercury

until a homogenous paste is formed. Then thoroughly incorporate

into this mixture 2-1/2 fl. ounces of coal Tar Solution and

4-1/2 ounces of LiquifiedPhenol. Put up in 2-ounce jars and

sell.

Ink in Powdered Form - Pulverize and mix 16 parts of Nut Gals

with 7 parts of Gum Arabic. Put up in 2-ounce drug envelopes

with instructions to mix into one pint of warm water. This

makes a good grade black ink.

Insect Repellant Pads - These are made by dipping fabric

remnants, paper toweling, paper napkin stock, etc., in a simple

solution made of: 1 part methyl (di-methyl) phthalate, 1 part

isopropyl alcohol - 95% alcohol, 190 proof (approx.). NOTE:

This is not the isopropyl rubbing compound. The alcohol serves

no active purpose beyond carrying the potent ingredient, Methyl

Phthalate, into the fibres of the pads. The alcohol then

evaporates. Directions for Use: If the skin is heavy with

perspiration, fist dry, then use the pad just like cleaning

tissue, for protection against gnats, mosquitoes, chiggers,

flies and other insects. Do not apply close to the eyes.

Perfectly safe elsewhere. For sale, a dozen or 20 small pads in

a polyethylene bag makes an effective retail unit.

Kitchen Wall Cleaner - This is a syrupy, water-like liquid,

until recently patented, but now produced by a number of

manufacturers who wholesale it through jobbers.

"Triethanolamine", pronounced Try-ethan-all-a-meen. It would be

difficult to find a chemical wholesaler who does not sell it,

but may not know its value as a cleaner-polish for smoked-up

kitchen walls. Directions: To make an amazing kitchen

wall-cleaner, add about an ounce to a quart of water. Add a

trace of blue dye for eye-appeal, if you wish. Or, sell "as is"

as a concentrate, for the user to dilute with water, himself.

The kitchen walls, of course, must be "washable". Moisten a

cloth or sponge with the solution, and wipe the soiled surfaces.

Rinsing is not necessary. The solution converts kitchen grease

deposits into soap, and leaves the walls gleaming like new.

Never dull or powdery as do many other, more expensive wall

cleaners.

Spray-On, Wipe-Off Glass Cleaner - Obviously, the base necessary

for all glass cleaners is water. But to make water much more

effective as a cleaner, other ingredients must be added. One of

the simplest and best is a solution of 3 or 4 parts of water and

1 part of Methanol, which is also known as denatured alcohol,

wood alcohol or methyl alcohol. It's inexpensive, too . This

simple formula makes a quick-drying glass cleaner that will

amaze you. If you want to improve it slightly, add not more

than 1/2 of 1% of any synthetic detergent like Vel, Tide, Rinso

Blue, and/or even less than 1/2 of 1% of trisodium phosphate,

better known as TSP. This is so cheap that you may be

well-advised to buy your first or experimental needs at retail.

A trace of blue or red dye may be added to your product, for eye

appeal. If you want a very effective solution and are impressed

by instant-drying properties, just use TSP and water. The

ready-to-use liquid cost about the same as plain water - but it

does the job! And it leaves no chalky deposits. Few products

for home use provide such a high margin of profit as this one.

(Note: The above analysis is sold as information only. we

cannot be held liable for any accidents that may result from

your using the solution improperly.)

Liquid Dishwashing Detergent - Unlike many detergents and

surfactants, this is non-corrosive, non-rusting. To this

extent, at least, it is superior for cleaning car bodies, milk

cans and other metal objects. Formula: "Nimex 21" from Stephan

Chemical Company, one of the largest producers of Lasic

synthetic detergents in the United States. It has a number of

factories, which we list below. Any of these firms can and will

answer your inquiries as to the distributor of their products

who is located nearest to you. Address to Stephan Chemical

Company at the following locations:

224A West Frontage Road, Northfield, IL

693 Humphries St., S.W. Atlanta, GA

100 West Hunter Avenue, Maywood, NJ

5587 North Ridge Rd, North Madison, OH

1139 Ellamae Street, Tampa 2, Fl

Dissolve Nimex 21 (any quantity) in an equal amount of water.

As you stir, the liquid becomes thicker, not thinner, as you

might normally expect. A trace of perfume oil, such as any

chemical house can supply, may be added if desired. The perfume

should be dissolved in the Nimex before adding water.

Directions: For dishwashing, add a tablespoonful or so to the

dishpan, the amount depending on the number of dishes and the

grease deposits, etc. For car washing and the like, 2

tablespoonfuls (one ounce) to 3 to 4 gallons of water is usually

ample. When hosed down, the body will dry without streaking.

Liquid Vitamin - Simply made from one product of the field.

Gives you quick energy and vitality. Author claims that after

one week, you'll be kicking up your heels and raring to go.

Ideal for men and women past 40. In a porcelain or enamelware

vessel, put 2-1/2 lbs. of clean Oats. Add 2 gallons of

distilled or unmineralized rainwater. Set in a cool place for

48 hours. Bring to boil slowly. Strain through cloth. You

will have about one gallon of liquid. Put in a jug, keep in

refrigerator. Dose: A 2 oz. glass , 3 or 4 times a day. If

larger quantities are made, add 1/10 of 1% of Benzoate-Soda to

the gallon to act as a preservative.

Transferix for Transferring Pictures - Common yellow soap, 1-1/2

oz., 3-1/2 oz. of fl. spirits of turpentine, 1 pint of soft

water (made soft by boiling, then cooled). Dissolve the soap by

boiling in the water, and when nearly cool add the turpentine,

then shake the ingredients together thoroughly. Put up in

1-ounce bottles. Paste a small label on the front of the

bottle, and on another small separate sheet (about 3x6) have the

following directions printed: Directions for Using Fluid:

Apply liberally to the surface of the printed matter with a soft

brush or sponge (being very careful that you do not smear the

ink, which becomes soft when the fluid is applied), and allow to

soak for a few minutes. Then place the plain cloth or paper

over wet side of printed matter and subject it to moderate

pressure - one minute - using bowl of spoon or small roller.

Upon separating them you will find the picture has been

transferred to the other surface.

Marvel-O Eight-in-One Product - Orthodichlorobenzene, 1 part;

Carbon Tetrachloride, 2 parts: by weight. Mix. Put up in

6-ounce cans, or in such sizes are best suited to your purposes.

This is truly a marvelous product on which the profit is

large. It does work, too. Insect Exterminator: Used as a

spray, it kills moths, their eggs and larvae, as well as

bedbugs, roaches, silverfish, ants, mosquitoes, flies and other

insects. Powerful Disinfectant: Adding two tablespoonsful to

warm water or soap suds, it serves as a powerful disinfectant

when applied to mattresses, springs, upholstery, walls, floors,

wash bowls, etc. Leaves a pleasant, clean odor and guards

health. Paint Remover: This wonderful product is amazingly

efficient in removing lacquer, shellac and paint of all kinds.

Hand Cleaner: Excellent for the workman or mechanic, removes

dirt, grime, grease and leaves the hands clean and soft. Used

full strength it will not harm the hands. Spot Cleaner: Takes

out dirt, grease, grime, spots and stains from any material.

Leaves no ring and is non-injurious. Deodorant: Used as a

spray, it becomes an effective and pleasant deodorant that kills

unpleasant odors and purifies the air. Easy to use.

Quick-Action Cleaner: An effective cleaner when added to soap

suds, cuts the grease and makes clothes washing easier. Also

speeds cleaning action on floors, walls, linoleum, tiling, wash

bowls, bath tubs, etc. A wonderful window cleaner. Metal

Polish and Cleaner: Apply full strength on a soft cloth, cuts

the surface dirt film with just a few easy rubs, and will not

injure any metal surface. Produces a brilliant finish or

restores original lustre. Renews and Cleans Typewriter Platens,

Ribbons and Printers' Rollers: Wash rollers with this solution.

Dip ribbons in this cleaner and roll out, wait 24 hours to use.

NOTE: Above is suggested for label and advertising copy. All

claims made above can be depended upon in this fantastic

product. Simply and easy to prepare and very profitable. It

makes a wonderful demonstrator item and is great for

house-to-house canvassing.

To Improve Odor: The odor of Orthodichlorobenzene will probably

have to be masked with a scenting oil, such as Oil of Myrbanc or

Citronella, by dissolving the scenting oil in a small amount of

rubbing alcohol and adding to the mixture. The

Orthodichlorbenzene and Carbon Tetrachloride may be obtained

from any wholesale drug company or chemical firm.

Attention

All container sizes given in this report are merely suggestions,

and do not necessarily convey any prevailing specifications.

You become a manufacturer when you label and package any product

yourself. In many localities, when you sell the goods directly,

a license will be required. However, often no local license is

necessary when interstate commerce is involved. City, county

and state authorities should be consulted for guidance on these

matters. No license is required by the federal government.

Some of the preparations outlined in this report are subject to

the Federal Food, Drug and cosmetic act of 1938. Briefly, this

act: 1. Authorized establishment of standards of strength,

quality and purity. 2. Forbids adulteration, misbranding,

deceptive containers. 3. requires clinical testing before

general sales of new drugs, including new combinations of

existing drugs and existing drugs recommended for new uses. You

can obtain more detailed information by securing a copy of

"Digest of the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act". It will

be sent free on request from The Food and Drug Administration,

Washington, DC.

A government permit is required when alcohol is used in any

preparation. For full particulars write the nearest Bureau of

Industrial Alcohol.

The federal government imposes a Retailers' Excise Tax on the

retail price of cosmetics. This luxury tax must be paid by the

customer regardless of how the sale is made. A Treasury

Department pamphlet titled "Regulations 51" lists what specific

items are covered and also gives other information. You can

obtain a copy from the Superintendent of Documents, Washington.

DC. Also, write to your state authorities for details on local

taxes, if any.

The use of an trademark indicates that the identifying sign

under which a product is sold has been registered as a

trademark, and that a similar product cannot be sold under the

same identifying sign. A trademark can be a word, a group of

words, symbol, picture, design, or combination of these. For

full details write to the Department of Commerce, U.S. Patent

Office, Washington, DC and ask for a copy of "Protection of

Trademarks".

Sources of Supply

Isopropyl Alcohol - For making the Glass Cleaner. In small

lots you can use the 70% grade of Isopropyl Alcohol Rubbing

Compound as available at low cost in all retail drugstores. In

commercial quantities, use the 91% grade of Isopropyl Alcohol

available by the drug from your local Chemical Dealer or

Commercial Solvents Corp., 245 Park ave, New York, NY 10017.

Sales offices are located in many principal cities (see the

Yellow Pages of your nearest large city telephone directory).

In addition to the Olin Corporation, previously suggested for a

Fire Extinguisher grade of Sodium Bicarbonate, we submit other

large suppliers of Sodium bicarbonate and who may also have a

special grade for this use.

Church & Dwight Co. Inc., 2 Pennsylvania Ave., New York, NY 10001

BASF Wyandotte Corp., 1609 Biddle Ave, Wyandotte, MI 48192

Hummel Chemical Co. Inc., P.O. Box 250, So., Plainfield, NJ 07080

Perfume Oils

Fritzsche Dodge & Olcott, Inc., 76 North Ave., New York, NY 10011

Leuders, 427 Washington St., New York, NY 10013

Norda Essential Oil Co., 475 10th Ave., New York, NY 10018

Colors

Where you require only small quantities, you can use the simple

food colors available from most grocery stores. In commercial

quantities, you can obtain all kinds of colors for all purposes

from:

Pylam Products Co. Inc., 9510 218th St., Queens Village, NY 11429

Plastic Bottles

Bemis Co., 800 Northstar Center, Minneapolis, MN 55402

W. Braun Co., 300 N. Canal St., Chicago, IL 60606

Foster-Grant Co., 289 N. Main St., Leominster, MA 01453

Penn Bottle & Supply Co., 5619 Cherry St., Philadelphia, PA 19139

Cartons or Boxes

Sealright Co., 314 S. 1st St., Fulton, NY 13069

Acme Folding Box Co., 1495 Horkimer St, Brooklyn, NY 11233

Stone Container Corp., 360 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60601

Labels

From your local printer or from:

Dennison Manufacturing Co., 67 Ford Ave., Framingham, MA 01701

Topflight Corp., 165 E. 9th Ave., York, PA 17404

Things to Remember (Smart Things)

Have confidence in yourself. Don't sell yourself short. Many

manufactured products with national distribution today were once

manufactured in a small way by people who possessed this

confidence in their ability to succeed. They did succeed, and

there is absolutely no reason why you can't make products as

good as the finest on the market. You must believe it!

The product, regardless of type, has not been made that cannot

be improved upon. That's why some products put out by little

known manufacturers are actually superior to those offered by

the big companies. So, never be satisfied with the product you

are making. Always try to improve upon it - you don't have to

be a chemist to do it. Experiment on your own - you might be

surprised at what you can do. The big companies are working

'round the clock to improve their products, which accounts for

the constant change in the formulas of many products. Just take

a look at the evolution of camera since Polaroid introduced its

Land Camera - supposedly the "ultimate camera". So, regardless

of how good a product may be, the possibility of improvements is

always there and should be explored at every opportunity.

Lack of finances is no barrier to success. The unsuccessful

person inevitably uses this as an alibi for his failures, but it

is an overworked alibi. This person leans heavily on the old

adage that "it takes money to make money". While there is

nothing particularly wrong with the statement, why is it that so

many people with little or no money to speak of have achieve

greatness in their chosen field or profession? It is because

they want success strongly enough to work for it and they have

confidence in their ability to achieve it.

They were Positive Thinkers, one of the outstanding

characteristics of successful people. Instead of looking upon a

project with doubt, fear and skepticism, the positive thinker

turns a deaf ear to all the Doubting Thomases who tell him it

can't be done. He goes ahead and does it!

The Negative Thinker, as much through laziness as anything else,

seems to welcome negative comments from others so he won't have

to put out the effort. It gives that person a good excuse for

being a failure.

Occasionally we receive a letter from someone who practically

accuses us of misleading people into believing they can make

money in the Chemical Specialty Manufacturing business and then

proceeds to tell us why it cannot be done. A self-appointed

expert on the subject who has never tired it and never will

because he has already accepted defeat - without even trying.

Always remember: What others are doing, you can do.

For every letter we receive from those defeatists, we receive

countless others from people who are making a success in this

business and enjoying it; but you can bet your bottom dollar

they didn't achieve it listening to the Gloomy Busses and

Doubting Thomases.

A living example if this is the story of the Italian man in

Montreal who went into this business on a "shoestring" with a

liquid cleaner, mixing it in an open head drum and selling it

for about $80 profit per drum. After developing a paying demand

for his cleaner, he obtained formulas for other products to add

to his line until the time came for him to add a good floor wax

or finish. When he mentioned this to one of his customers,

advising him that in the very near future he would have a good

floor wax, the customer told him that he was foolish to add such

a product to his line because the Johnson Wax People had the

business sewed up. The Italian man replied, "Whoosa this

Johnson? Neva heara him. He neva hearda me, so I have new

floor wax nexta week". He couldn't have cared less about

competition, no matter how big - he had confidence in his

ability to do things and he did them.

Many proportions in this report are designated by "parts". Any

one weight, such as grams, ounces, pounds, etc., may be substituted

for "parts".

GARAGE SALE -- HOW YOU CAN MAKE IT A

GARAGE SALE -- HOW YOU CAN MAKE IT A

SUCCESS

Like to exchange that gold mine of junk in your basement for a

fistful of dollars? You can, by holding a garage sale.

You don't necessarily need a garage to hold a garage sale, but

you do need to know the secrets of success. Some careful

planning will assure you of a successful sale.

First, consider your location. If you're too far off the

beaten track, you might like to ask a friend if you can hold the

sale in their yard.

Next, check the bylaws in your area to find out if you might

need a permit to hold a garage sale. You may be required to pay

a fee, or to collect sales tax. Also, find out if you can put

up signs in the neighborhood to advertise your sale.

Choosing the date and hours for your sale should be easy.

Naturally, a weekend day would be the best and the morning (not

too early, though) and afternoon the best hours.

Make use of free advertising bulletin boards in your community

to publicize your sale. You can also advertise in your local

newspaper.

Now, what to sell. You may be surprised that what you have no

use for and in fact think is junk, someone else is thrilled

with. The following list will give you some ideas of what you

can sell:

appliances - large and small

books - paperback and hard cover

costume jewelery

sports equipment

plants

linens / bedding

children's toys

flatware - silver and stainless steel

baby equipment

phonograph records / tapes

shoes / boots

patio equipment

garden tools

kitchen utensils / gadgets

china / bric-a-brac

clothing, especially children's

pictures / frames

Now that you've decided when your sale will be held and just

what you're going to sell, the following tips will help make

your day a success:

Put a price tag on every item. Mark your prices clearly. This

makes it easier for a customer to browse. Masking tape is

excellent for price tags.

Make sure your merchandise is very clean. Goods that are

polished and in good condition will sell faster than old dusty

items.

Be ready to deal with customers promptly at opening time. Have

everything ready and be wearing a smile.

Be prepared to give your customers change by having coins and

small bills on hand.

Save your bags for a few weeks before your sale, so you can

offer your customers some wrapping for their purchases.

Be prepared to haggle with customers.

After your sale, if you should have any leftovers, perhaps you

would like to donate them to a local charity. Or you can always

save the leftovers for your next sale.

Garage sales are a lot of fun. Plan yours properly and you'll

be assured of a good time and a successful sale.

BIG MONEY IN PLASTICS

BIG MONEY IN PLASTICS

Look around you. Almost everything you see is made of

plastic. Now with these 16 formulas found in the book,

Big Money in Plastics, you can make your own items, such

as lamps, plaques, vases, toys, desk sets, novelty items

and more. It's an endless list. The only requirement

needed is a small space to work in, a heater or stove.

You need a kettle or pan to heat the mixture in and a

table or bench to work on. Your dining table can be used.

Here's what you get...

1. The book containing 16 formulas for making almost any type of

plastic.

2. Instructions for making molds, mixing, heating, pouring, etc.

3. Names and addresses of companies that furnish supplies.

You also get full reprint rights to reprint and sell the

formulas. You get a camera-ready copy of the circular to

sell the booklet.

You can make plastic products to sell, and sell the

formulas just as I do. YOU MAKE MONEY BOTH WAYS! Order

your copy of Big Money in Plastics today. It's only

$5.00. If for any reason you are not satisfied with this

business plan, simply return it within ten days for a full

refund.

Send me Big Money in Plastics, and include the reprint

rights. Enclosed is my check or money order for $5.00 and

2 first class stamps.

NAME________________________________________________

ADDRESS____________________________________________

CITY/STATE/ZIP________________________________________

Order From:

SULPHO-PLASTICS

This plastic is particularly adaptable for making molds

and light castings requiring low tensile strength but very

clear outline. It may also be used for making novelties

and ornaments. However, as this is inflammable, do not

use for ashtrays.

The name would convey the thought of plastic sulphur which

is an unstable allotropic for of sulphur, this is not the

case. The sulphur acts as a bond to hold the filler

together and form a stable material.

Marble effects may be obtained by varying the filler used,

and by substituting a small quantity of chalk to replace

some of the graphite. A very pleasing glazed marble

effect is formed.

As long as graphite is retained as a filler, this plastic

may be electroplated and forms a very economical base for

such work.

FORMULA: Mix thoroughly and smooth together 25 parts

graphite and 75 parts sulphur and place over low heat. As

soon as the mass has melted and runs like water, remove

from heat. In any case, a temperature of 235 degrees F.

should not be exceeded. It heated about 250 degrees F.

the plastic will form a rubbery mass and will have to be

cooled and reheated. In this liquid state the plastic is

ready for casting, and may be poured into smooth surfaced

molds.

N.B. to heat this mixture properly, a good even heat is

necessary. Should the heating be done by flame, the

container should be placed in a sand bath to insure an

even heat. The cast iron top of a stove or heater is

excellent.

EQUIPMENT: The only equipment for the above that is

required, is space enough to work. a heater or stove, a

kettle or pan to heat the mixture in, and a table or

bench.

PROCEDURE: Before making in castings you will need a

pattern. After choosing a design that fits your need,

your next step is to make a mold. Then you start into

production. If your product requires any holes, threads

or machining, this may be done in the same manner as in

working with a metal casting.

Always think of your castings as metal, for they have

metallic properties, i.e., conduct heat, electricity and

can be electroplated. In fact, the most valuable quality

of Sulpho-Plastic is the fact that it can be used as a

metal substitute. This permits you to make products that

look and are as good and even better, in some cases, than

a true metal. For instance, to make a chrome plated metal

lamp base, other metal casting would require foundry

equipment and machine shop work. A process miles out of

reach of the small manufacturer. However, with your

plastic lamp base, similar in all respects, may be made

for a fraction of the other cost.

ELECTROPLATING: While this can be done at home with very

little equipment, it is advisable to have it done by a

commercial form. They do it very cheaply and much more

efficiently. Electroplating is only used on expensive

replicas and is not advisable for a start.

DESIGN: The number and variety of articles that can be

made from Sulpho-Plastic is practically unlimited and to

make a complete list would be impossible. Though any

article of reasonable size and simplicity of design such

as lams, vases, plaques, brooches, desk-sets, toys, paper

weights, etc., may be cast by using an original article

for a pattern or model. Or an original design may be

patterned in clay and used to make a mold. It is

advisable for the beginner to choose a simple article to

start with, preferably solid, such as book-ends or paper

weights.

MOLDS: Molds may be made of metal or plaster of paris.

Metal models require a great deal of skill and equipment

to produce. therefore for the beginner, it is advisable

to use plaster of paris.

To make a plaster of paris mold. First obtain a box, wood

or cardboard, about an inch larger than the article to be

cast. Coat the inside of the box very thoroughly, yet

thinly with stearine or sweet oil. Use this also on the

article to be cast. This acts as a lubricant and the

plaster of paris will not cement itself to either the box

or the article, if the oil is evenly distributed. Next

make a thick, creamy mixture of plaster of paris by

sifting the plaster gradually into the water, stirring

constantly to prevent lumping. Let this stand for a few

minutes to allow the air bubbles to escape. Pour mixture

slowly over pattern in the box to about double the

thickness of the pattern. Allow several hours to dry,

then remove. when the mold is thoroughly dry, give it a

thin coat of shellac and repeat in 12 hours. Now the mold

is ready to use.

MOLDING: First always make sure that you have lubricated

your mold with stearine or beeswax. Place molds on a

reasonably level surface and pour the Sulpho-Plastic into

the mold, quickly and smoothly. Do not pour from a height

as this will break the lubricant and leave blemishes on

the castings. Plastic must be poured quickly to prevent

cooling in folds and thus making a poor casting. One of

the big assets of Sulpho-Plastic is the fact that is dries

and hardens almost immediately. There is no long wait for

the casting to dry.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Graphite and Sulphur can be obtained

from most any hardware or paint store. Also plaster of

paris. Stearine, beeswax, sweet oil can be purchased from

most drug or grocery stores.

FORMULA:

Foam density lbs./cu.ft.

11/2 8 24 48

Polylite 8601

50. 50. 50. 50.

Catalyst RI

1.3 0.65 0.65 0.65

Water

3.7 0.4 0.1 0.0

Polylite 8621

100. 50. 48.5 47

(polylite 8601 is a polyseter) (polylite 8621 is a polyiscyanate)

PROCEDURE: In order to prepare a foam of give density,

thoroughly mix Polylite 8601 with the necessary amount of

catalyst RI and water. This mixture is stable when foam

is required. Add the necessary amount of Polylite 8621.

Mix thoroughly for 25 to 30 seconds and then pour. Do

this right after mixing foams per instructions above. The

foam will fully expand within 3 to 5 minutes and set

within 5 to 7 minutes into a rigid unicullar structure.

Available mixing time can be extended by moderately

chilling the catalyzed resin and the Polysicyanate. It

will attain nearly maximum physical properties upon

standing a few hours at room temperature and ultimate

strength in about one week. Surface brittleness may be

evident with some formulations after initial set. This

brittleness disappears upon further curing, leaving a

tough non-friable foam. curing can be accelerated with

moderate heat up to 100 degrees F. after the foam has set

if desired.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Polylite 8601, Polylite 8621 and

Catalyst RI can all be obtained from: Reichold Chemicals

Inc. 525 N. Broadway, White Plains, NY 10602

CRAFT PLAX CLEAR FLEXIBLE PLASTIC

Vinyl Chloride Type Suitable for molding in a letter press

FORMULA:

Pliovic AO.......25 ounces

Dioctyl Phthalate.......12 ounces

Panaflex BN 2.....4 ounces

Aluminum Stearate....1 ounce

PROCEDURE: The aluminum stearate is mixed with hot

Dioctyl Phthalate. After cooling to room temperature, add

the panaflex BN 2, and finally, the Pliovic AO. Small

scale mixing can be done with a paddle, but commercial

size batches will require the use of a planetary dough

type mixer such as used by bakers.

PACKING: One pint paint cans and a paper label.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Mold with your hands or press into

molds with a letter press. Heat to 350 degrees F. and

hold this temperature until the plastic has cured. This

will require from a few minutes to an hour or more,

depending on the thickness of the object. Curing time can

be determined by trial. Molds can be made of 50-50

solder.

COMMENT: Plastic of this kind is known as plastigel,

since it is in the form of easily manipulated, putty-like

gel in its uncured state. No other form of plastic is

better suited to the operation of the homeworker because

no expensive dyes or high pressure pressing equipment is

needed to produce first class flexible objects.

SOURCE OF SUPPLIERS:

Pliovic AO..Goodyear Tire and Rubber Co. Akron, OH.

Dioctyl Phthalate.. Monsanto Chemical Corp...1700 S. 2nd

St., St. Louis MO.

Panaflex BN-2..Amoco Chemical Corp..555 Fifty Ave., New

York, NY.

Aluminum Stearate..Witco Chemical Co., 277 Park Ave., New

York, NY.

Paint Cans..Fruend Can Co., 4439 S. Cottage Grove Ave.,

Chicago, IL.

Labels..Frazer Label Co., 734 S. Federal St., Chicago, IL.

Mixers.. A. Daigger & Co., 189 W. Kinzie St., Chicago, IL.

IMITATION PAPER MACHE

FORMULA 1:

Wet paper pulp.....10 ounces

Casein.....5 ounces

Lime.....2 ounces

Whitting.....20 ounces

Use as little water as possible in mixing this formula.

Make up small batches until you see if the composition is

exactly what you desire. Hot compositions, of course

cannot be used in glue molds.

FORMULA 2:

Paper pulp.....10 ounces

Whitting.....8 ounces

Rice flour.....5 ounces

Cook to a heavy paste, or 5 ounces of rice may be cooked

to a past and mixed with the dry materials. A hard paper

mache.

FORMULA 3:

Use paper pulp or whitting...5 pounds

Liquid Glue.....1 pound

Clear Varnish.....4 ounces

Linseed Oil.....4 ounces

MIXING: Pour the glue into a tin or pail with a tight

fitting lid so that it can be kept tightly closed when not

in use. Then add the whitting or paper

pulp, stirring in a little at a time to a smooth paste.

Then add the varnish and linseed oil, mixed well. Keep

the mixture covered well when not in use as it dries

rapidly. This mixture will adhere firmly to wood, glass,

tin, chinaware, etc. paper mache surfaces are greatly

improved after drying if they are coated with shellac, 2

coats.

SYNTHETIC RESIN PLASTIC

FORMULA: Phenol and a solution of Formaldehyde, in equal

portions are put in a steam jacketed kettle and heat is

gradually applied. Soon the materials will begin to

react, and in doing so - liberate heat so intense the

reaction may become that the steam must, at times be shut

off and cold water circulated in the jacket to keep the

process from going too far, or the materials from boiling

out of the kettle. After a few hours of heating the

contents of the kettle will be found to have separated

into layers. The heavy melted resin n the bottom and the

water on top. When the water is removed, the melted resin

is allowed to run from the kettle into small pans to cool.

This is a process that requires some experimenting with to

get just right. But it is an interesting experience, and

lays the foundation for later work on a commercial basis.

Different treatment will produce many different qualities

of the product. So it is good to keep a record of every

operation. Put them all down in a record book, when a

satisfactory product is obtained, it can later be

duplicated.

SOURCE OF SUPPLIES:

Phenol and Formaldehyde can be purchased from most any

wholesale drug supply Co.

FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTIC

FORMULA:

Laminac 4134........24.45%

Laminac 4110........75.00%

Cobalt Nepthenate (Liquid)...0.24%

Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide...0.3%

ALSO NEEDED:

Talc

Fiberglass mat

Color paste for Laminac resin

Cellophane

No. 1894 EX-L-WAX

Woven Fiberglass cloth

PROCESS:

This method of forming reinforced plastic objects is known

as "open mold fabrication." It is best suited to the home

craftsman because it is the simplest method available and

requires the lowest investment. Extreme wide variation in

the techniques are possible and they type os structures

that can be made are almost limitless. For molding a boat

hull, a female mold is used. This mold is made to conform

exactly to the exterior dimensions and finish desired in

the completed molded boat hull. The mold may be made of

wood, plaster, metal, or plastic. The best practical and

inexpensive molds are made of the same plastic from which

the boat itself will be made. The interior of the mold is

first coated with the parting agent - No. 1894 EX-L-WAX.

Apply the least amount that will provide easy removal of

the hull from the mold. Mix the laminac 4134 and 4110 in

the proportions stated in the above formula. Add the

cobalt naphthenate accelerator and mix thoroughly before

adding the methyl ethyl ketone peroxide catalyst. The

catalyst will react violently with the pure accelerator so

make certain these materials are mixed separately. Add

talc to the mixture to thicken it so that application to a

vertical surface will not produce sags... Apply a coat of

the thickened resin to the inside surface of the mold.

This is to insure a smooth and durable surface. Lay up a

single layer of fiberglass mat over the entire surface of

the mold. Using a paint roller or brush impregnate the

layer of fiberglass with resin. Regardless of how the

resin is applied, the paint roller must also be used to

assure against entrapped air bubbles.

Lay up another layer of mat and impregnate with resin same

as the first. Repeat this process until desired thickness

is attained. Finish with a layer of fiberglass cloth and

work vigorously with the roller to remove excess resin.

Finally apply cellophane over the entire surface to

produce a smooth finish. Allow to harden at room

temperature. Remove from the mold and place in an even

heated oven to 170 degrees F. and not over 200 degrees F.

Bake until full hardness is achieved.

Any other structure, large or small is molded in the same

way. Whether you use a male or female mold depends on

which surface of the finished piece should have the

finished side. The surface in contact with the mold is

always the most highly finished.

Colors may be added to suit by using color paste made for

the purpose. These are incorporated into the resin at the

time the talc is added.

More complete instructions on this process may be found in

"Fabrication with Laminac Resins. Write to: American

Cyanamid Co., 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:

Laminac 4134 and Laminac 4110 from..American Cyanamid Co.

Plastics Div., 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020

Cobalt Nepthenate (liquid) from..Carlisle Chemical Works,

Inc. Reading, OH.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone from..Enjay Co., 15 W. 51st, New York,

NY 10020

Talc from... Johns-Manville Co., Celite Div., 22 E. 40th

St., New York, NY 10016

No. 1894 EX-L-WAX from...Mitchell Rand Mfg. Co. 51 Murray

St., New York, NY 10007

Fiberglass Mat from....Bigelow Fiberglass Products, 140

Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016

Woven Fiberglass Cloth from....Hess Goldsmith & Co., 1450

Broadway, New York, NY

Color Pastes from...Plastic Molders Supply Co., 74 South

Ave., Fanwood, NJ

Cellophane from...Olin Products Co., 270 Park Ave., New

York, NY

FISHING LURES, FROGS & WORMS

FORMULA:

Geen 121..........30 ounces

Geen 202..........20 ounces

Good-Rite GP-261...25 ounces

Tin Stabilizer....1 ounce

Hydrogenated Terphenyl...25 ounces

PROCEDURE:

A small quantity like this may be mixed with an electric

hand mixer, or by hand. This mixture is fluid and may be

poured into suitable molds. Heating the molds to 350

degrees F. in an oven. It will fuse and harden the

plastic. There will be little shrinkage and the cast

objects have a life-like feeling. Molds may be made of

any material that will stand the curing temperature.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:

Geen 121 & 202 from..B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co., 3135

Euclid Ave., Cleveland, OH

Good-Rite GP-261 from...B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co., 3135

Euclid Ave., Cleveland, OH

Hydrogenated Terphenyl from...Harshaw Chemical Co., 1945

E. 97th St., Cleveland, OH

Tin Stabilizer from...Metal Thermit Corp., Rahway, NJ

CELLO SPONGE RUBBER

FORMULA:

Geen 121..........100 ounces

Paraplex G-25........50 ounces

Paraplex G-50........50 ounces

Dythos (stabilizer)....3 ounces

BL-353 (blowing agent)..10 ounces

Sponge Density 7 lbs. per cu. ft. Expansion 1100%.

PROCEDURE:

Heat the pastisol in the mold or on the desired substrate

at 212 degrees F. until expansion is completed. When the

GL-353 is used. The pigmented plastisol will show a

yellow-green (the color of BL-353) to white when all the

blowing agent is decomposed.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:

Geen 121 from..B.F. Goodrich, 3135 Euclid Ave., Cleveland, HO

Paraplex G-25 & G-50 from...Relm & Haas Co., Washington

Square, Philadelphia, PA

Dythos from...National Lead Co., 111 Broadway, New York, NY

BL-353 from...E.I. Dupont Co., Wilmington, DE

SIMPLIFIED PLASTICS

The amount of ingredients used in these various formulas

is considered to be correct. But you may have to do some

experimenting on your own, to obtain the proper flow

properties.

FORMULA 1:

Wood Flour...5 parts

Sodium Silicate....15 parts

PROCEDURE:

Mix the wood flour and Sodium Silicate together. Add more

water if necessary until a dough like mixture is formed by

kneading with the hands. This material may be molded into

hard objects by pressure. Colors may be added while

kneading. Use aniline dyes or dry colors. This material

is suited for plaques, statues, book ends and etc.

FORMULA 2:

Dissolve 20 parts of flake glue in water n a double

boiler. Add the dissolved glue to 90 parts of gelatin.

Add 50 parts of wood flour and 300 parts of powdered

chalk. Mix A and B together to make a heavy batter. This

is done in enough warm water to loosen the material. Add

dry colors (can be obtained from any paint dealer) and

mold under pressure.

FORMULA 3:

Add 100 pars of Zinc Oxide to 4 parts of Silicic Acid.

Add 2 parts of Powdered Borax to 2 1/2 parts of Powdered

Glass. Then mix both together well. Grind until fine,

then bring it into a solution by adding a concentrated

Zinc Oxide solution. This material is ideal for small

objects, but most be worked fast because of its rapid

drying. Color if desired in the usual manner. It may be

pressed with a hand press or in a drill press.

FORMULA 4:

Dissolve 1 pound of flaked glue in water by boiling.

Shred enough tissue paper into the solution to give body

and then stir until a thick batter results. Add 1 cup of

Linseed Oil into the solution and 1 cup of powdered chalk.

Stir well then remove from the double boiler, when cool

enough to knead with hands. Press into molds. A pair of

old gloves, slightly oiled with pure oil should be used to

protect the hands while kneading these materials. It

takes a few days for this material to dry. But at the end

of the drying time it should be as hard as stone. And it

resembles carved wood.

FORMULA 5:

Add 11 parts of Epsom Salts to 36 parts of freshly

Calcined Magnesite and 2 1/1 parts of Lead Acetate. Mix

thoroughly. Then add enough water to hold the material

together. Mold under pressure. This formula is good for

outdoor decorations. Such as ducks, birds, etc. They may

be painted after they have dried.

FORMULA 6:

Add 12 parts Pitch to 6 parts Rosin, mix together then add

1/2 part Caster Oil and 1/4 part melted wax. Blend this

mixture together at a temperature of 250 to 260 degrees F.

Press while hot into a cold die. Many articles may be

made from this material.

WOOD PLASTIC

Easy to make. Take any desired amount of wood flour or

finely sifted sawdust. Add enough ordinary clear lacquer

to make a thick putty like mass. This will keep for a

long time if kept in a tightly closed container. It makes

a fine durable material for mending and patching wood.

Purchase a can of plastic wood from your local hardware

store. You can see how it is packaged. Note: "Plastic

Wood" is a registered name. If you wish to package and

sell this product, you cannot use that name legally. You

can make up a name of your own.

Wood Flour may be purchased from....Wood Flour Inc.,

Howard Street, Winchester, NH or Composition Materials

Co., Ridgeway Cir, Summer St., Stanford, CT 06905.

You may obtain it from local woodworking plants.

SOURCE OF SUPPLIES:

Metal can may be purchased from...Fruend Can Co., 4439 S.

Cottage Grove Ave., Chicago, IL

Paper labels from...Fraser Label Co., 734 S. Federal St.,

Chicago, IL

RESIN CASTING PLASTIC

This is called Phenolic-Formaldehyde-Resin: All the

materials for this formula can be purchased from any

wholesale drug house.

EXTREME CAUTION: should be taken when mixing this

formula. You should only use a glass or stainless steel

vessel, and perform the operation in a place where the

fumes will dissipate. Either in open air or into a

chimney. These products should never come into contact

with the skin. They are highly irritating and corrosive.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Pure Phenol (carbolic acid) crystals, Formalin (30%

Formaldehyde), Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) or lye,

Lactic Acid, Clycerine, and Hydrochloric Acid.

Quantities are given by weight, so that you may make any

desired amount of resin.

FORMULA:

In a vessel mix 1 part phenol with 2 1/2 parts of

formalin. Add caustic soda a 20% solution in water, in

the amount of three parts to 100 parts of the phenol and

formaldehyde solution. This mixture is then heated for

about 6 hours at 150 to 160 degrees F. Remove the water

formed by the reaction. When the resin has become a thick

syrup, add 6 parts of lactic acid and 15 parts of

glycerine. Continue to heat until a small sample congeals

on cooling. Add Hydrochloric Acid, 1 part to 100 parts of

the mixture by weight, and when sufficiently cool, pour

into dies of lead or plaster.

Hardening tie depends on so many factors it is hard to

predict. It will dry quicker if heated in an oven at 120

to 140 degrees F. The product will be water-white, and

may be colored with dyes or pigments if desired.